One of my favorite patterns for Kobukusa is Kiri ni Mukai Houou Maru-mon Nishiki.
Kobukusa are small cloths used when handling and appreciating treasured tea utensils. Often made from beautifully patterned silk, they are valued not only for their practical purpose but also for the history and artistry of their designs.
The fabric shown in the photograph is produced by TATSUMURA TEXTILE CO., LTD. in Kyoto, a company known for its study and recreation of historical textiles.
Kiri ni Mukai Houou Maru-mon Nishiki
The design features two phoenixes facing each other within circular motifs, with paulownia flowers arranged around them. Tatsumura also identifies this textile as Mibu-dera Gire (壬生寺裂).
The pattern was adapted from a costume used in Mibu Kyogen, a traditional form of theatrical performance associated with Mibu-dera Temple in Kyoto. The costume was donated to the temple in 1850 by Yasujiro Osaka-ya and eight others.
The phoenix has long been associated with peace and prosperity. Together with the paulownia, it forms an especially auspicious design.
The Weaving Technique: Tatenishiki
This fabric is woven using a traditional technique called tatenishiki (経錦), or warp-patterned brocade.
In this technique, the colored warp threads create both the background and the design. For example, in a three-color pattern, three differently colored warp threads are arranged as a group. By selectively bringing certain threads to the surface while keeping others beneath it, the weaver creates the desired colors and patterns.
As the number of colors increases, more warp threads are required, making the weaving process increasingly complex. Although two-color warp structures are common, examples using four or even six warp colors are also known. These textiles demonstrate the remarkable skill involved in traditional weaving.
I hope you will discover a favorite pattern of your own. Even a small piece of silk can add another dimension of beauty to the appreciation of tea utensils.
